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Whenever compiling a list of London’s best eateries, one might foresee well-known award-winning establishments. However, situated high among these culinary giants is a modest salonu located in a outlying corner of northern London.

A Shocking Accolade

The small Turkish spot, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the city by a influential culinary publication. The accolade has made the proprietors completely shocked.

“I’m totally shocked,” states a proprietor, pointing to his family’s relentless work that led to their small place earning such a high position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

The compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its original character. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking show, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” comments the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the food, and this restaurant certainly excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent texture.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the savoury meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than is typical, giving it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

A Ethos of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not train at fancy establishments. “I feel very happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to have meaning outside its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this gastronomic triumph.